In the And just like that premiere, documentary filmmaker Lisa Todd Wexler (Nicole Ari Parker) walks over to a stunned Charlotte (Kristin Davis) table. The “International Best Dressed List” character was originally scripted as “wearing Chanel from head to toe”.
But to illustrate its esteemed elegance, the sex and the city the costumers of the Molly Rogers suite (@mgrmgm) and Danny Santiago (@the_danny_santiago) shifted gears with an infusion of independent brand selections, like Florentine’s made-to-order handbags Veronique Silicanitrendy jewelry by a Ghanaian designer based in London Efema Coleand a carnival print evening dress from the zero waste Berlin brand Rianna + Nina. “We wanted to give it a very unique style,” says Santiago, avoiding the expected “copycat runway look”.
Join Hulu Season Two doll faceMelissa Walker (@ruckusaurus) sought to further differentiate each of the show’s millennial tracks through a distinctive mix of up-and-coming labels. “To really give an aesthetic range,” explains the costume designer. “Just going to the mall after COVID, so many things mixed together in the same aesthetic.” For example, Walker leaned into the “cute, playful, Y2K” quirkiness of Izzy (Esther Povitsky) with a pilgrim collar dress from the sustainable Francophile label. Olivia Latinovitch. For doll faceof Jules (Kat Denning), who wears soft but grungy florals, Walker turned to her own line of reference from the early 2000s, land that looks likelocally made from dead animal tissue.
Likewise, Euphoriaby Heidi Bivens (@heidibivens) says that since season one, “I’ve had a goal of trying to create looks that couldn’t be called or identified as easily.” In two seasons of dressing the hit show’s overly cool teens, Bivens has sparked trends and online shopping sprees.
As Emily in Paris costume designer Marylin Fitoussi (@mshangaimx) sees it, incorporating cutting-edge visions into a TV show can serve a deeper mission.
“[It’s] my gift to young designers,” says Fitoussi. “Big famous houses like Valentino, Dior and Chanel don’t need me to become famous all over the world. But the young creator needs [the platform] to stand out. For a photo shoot with Ellen von Unwerth’s lens on the show, Fitoussi called on Jean Paul Gaultier’s protege Victor Weinsanto and Parisian cool kid Solene Lescouet as the ghost creators behind Pierre Cadault’s (Jean-Christophe Bouvet) avant-garde fiction collection.
These four costume designers also turn to independent brands at the forefront of eco-responsible and ethical practices. “There is a real opportunity as consumers to be able to use our purchasing power to create positive change when it comes to environmental concerns and sustainability,” says Bivens. “It also plays into this idea of supporting these small designers, who are creating clothes in a more artisanal way and moving away from fast fashion.”
isa boulderan Indonesian brand that focuses on ethical production by employing local artisans, saw its sleeveless knit sweater worn by Sydney Sweeney on Euphoria. At And just like thatfor a brainstorm of advice regarding her own teenager, Charlotte wears a pink and white skirt (suggested by Davis herself) by New York Elisa Christophe. The sustainable luxury label is creating income opportunities for women artisans in Kenya and other African countries.
Referred by Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu — who plays Emily in Paris owner Sylvie — Fitoussi collaborated with the Parisian company Renaissance Project for upcycled custom designs, including Sylvie’s architectural power suit reworked from vintage judogis. The non-profit Renaissance Project helps people from marginalized communities, with limited access to the regular job market, through training in high fashion tailoring. “People are starting to think about the responsibility we have to limit the fast and furious consumption of clothing,” says Fitoussi. She also turned to Rianna + Nina for a vibrant, one-of-a-kind combination crafted from vintage scarves for Jeremy O. Harris’ guest spot as fashion’s enfant terrible, Grégory Elliot Duprée.
Similarly, Walker infused doll face cabinets with local manufacturer parts Bomme Studiousing ethical labor and sustainable practices, inclusive slow fashion brand KS Gardner and eco-responsible loungewear by Naia. For free-spirited power player Stella (Shay Mitchell), Walker also found a very Insta-friendly “retro modernized” pool set made from repurposed terry cloth by Zingara Vintage owner Erin Silvers. Prior to the release of season two, Walker proactively contacted ShopYourTV to ensure brand coverage – even providing the site with wardrobe credits and click-to-buy links. “I wanted to focus my efforts on indie creators who were struggling to stay afloat or couldn’t afford a marketing campaign,” she says.
And while many small fashion businesses have struggled and even shut down during the pandemic, a few have made crucial sales through their exposure to these shows.
In Emily in Parisafter Sylvie slowly walked into lunch to meet her young lover’s friends in a sheer paneled knit dress by Weinsanto, it immediately sold out. And after equipping Biven EuphoriaMaddy Perez (Alexa Demie) confident and confrontational in two Parisian-inspired outfits based in Los Angeles Meow in a recent episode (including his Ginger dress in Azul), searches for Meow jumped 25%, according to a global fashion shopping app Lyst.
Buzz can even start a preview: last summer, the paparazzi caught Sarah Jessica Parker, as Carrie, filming And just like that outside. Images of her wearing an asymmetrical boater by Brooklyn milliner Rodney Patterson Esenshel label immediately gone viral. “I was so excited and wanted to support him. Now he has a store in the East Village,” says Rogers, who along with Santiago has also focused on spotlighting BIPOC-owned brands.
Bivens compares the impact of TV placements to fashion magazine editorials. “It’s really exciting to feel that you can contribute in this way,” says the costume designer, “and to be part of this larger community of designers trying to grow their business.”
A version of this story first appeared in the February 23 issue of The Hollywood Reporter magazine. Click here to subscribe.